Washington and Virginia
Published in Woman's Weekly 13th October 2009
Published in Woman's Weekly 13th October 2009
Flower Power in Washington DC & the Capital Region USA
I was a fresh-faced student when I first visited Washington D.C., the capital city of the United States back in the summer of 1984. I had just finished working as a counsellor at an American Kids Summer camp in Michigan and was enjoying a fortnight’s travel before returning to Britain. I remember trying to squeeze in as many of the tourist attractions as possible, but there was so much to see and do, I promised myself I would return.
It took a quarter of a century, but I finally managed to keep my promise when I embarked on a tour around the capital region of Washington D.C. and Virginia in the early summer of 2009. I was intrigued to discover how things may have changed, particularly as the "Obama effect" has led to a big rise in the number of Britons booking trips to Washington DC.
I decided to explore the gardens, national parks, wineries and farmers markets of the region after watching the highly successful BBC TV series ‘Around the World in 80 Garden’s’. One episode featured Monty Don’s personal expedition to Monticello, home of Thomas Jefferson and described by him as being ‘perhaps the most famous garden in the whole region – if not the whole of America’.
Suitably impressed, I began my visit amongst the movers and shakers of Washington D.C. and headed for a whistle stop tour of the capital on a guided bike ride around the major sites on and around the National Mall and Capital Hill. It’s a healthy and green way to explore the city and the flat terrain with great cycle paths made the tour easy, fun and a useful way of getting your bearings around a busy city.
http://www.bikenroll.com
Other transport options to explore Washington include the Open Top Sightseeing double-decker bus tours.
http://www.opentopsightseeing-dc.com
The Metro, which is quick and inexpensive with a day pass at just $7.80 per person or you can simply join a free walking tour from an organisation called DCbyFoot where you leave your guide a tip to show your appreciation.
http://www.dcbyfoot.com
Another free attraction, which shouldn’t be missed, is The National Gallery of Art boasting one of the country’s largest collections of Western art and sculpture housed in two contrasting buildings of architectural style. My favourite is the modern East Wing featuring work by all the major C20th artists from Picasso to Britain’s own Rachel Whiteread.
http://www.nga.gov
Keen horticulturists are spoiled for choice in Washington. My top recommendations include The Hillwood Estate, the former spring and autumn residence of the heiress, art collector and philanthropist Marjorie Merriweather Post. Inside the Georgian-style mansion is a fine collection of Russian imperial and French decorative art but it’s the series of pleasure gardens that made the greatest impression on me. Being a keen golfer, I just loved the beautifully manicured 9-hole putting green where Mrs. Post’s family and friends must have practised their game amidst an informal English garden setting. Other garden treasures include the Japanese-style hillside garden, the sweet smelling rose collection and the French Parterre, reflecting Mrs Post’s love of C18th French culture.
Dumbarton Oaks is the former residence of Mildred and Robert Woods Bliss and is part of Harvard University, but the beautifully tended terraced gardens; house and museum are open to the public. The couple transformed the neglected grounds into a series of traditional English, Italian and French styles with plants chosen for year round interest.
http://www.doaks.org
Perched on one of DC’s highest points is The National Arboretum, a living museum where trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific and educational purposes. I particularly enjoyed exploring the cottage-style scented herb garden, one of the largest in the nation and a botanical treasure.
http://www.usna.usda.gov
Don’t leave Washington without popping into Kramerbooks an independent bookstall, bar/café and restaurant rolled into one that has become an institution in DC and a prime meeting place. It gets crowded in the evenings so try their breakfast or brunch followed by a stroll around DC’s Eastern Market where local merchants offer everything from fresh pasta to delicious blueberry pancakes. On Weekends the Farmers Market moves outdoors. Arts & Crafts Fairs are held on Saturdays and The Flea Market attracts a crowd on Sundays.
http://www.kramers.com
The State of Virginia has always been noted for its kind hospitality and the good ladies of The Garden Club of Virginia are no exception. I was lucky enough to meet a few of their distinguished members when I visited the Morven Estate to discuss the programme of events for next years Historic Garden Week – a nine day open house celebration of some of Virginia’s most beautiful gardens, homes and landmarks. It’s the oldest house and garden public tour event in the nation and raises a considerable amount of money for garden restoration projects. Apart from visiting the grand renovated house and vast gardens at Morven, I also had the pleasure of an accompanied walk around the charming private garden of Mary Beth Wood who was only too pleased to show me around her property.
This is one of Virginia’s finest social events of the year and a great opportunity to appreciate Virginia’s heritage and to indulge in a spot of people watching. Not to be missed.
Virginia’s Historic Gardens Week takes place between the 17-25th April 2010. www.VAGardenweek.org
The highlight of my trip was a visit to Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s home, gardens and plantations. Jefferson was a remarkable man who was not only the primary author of the Declaration of Independence and president of the United States but also a noted architect, gardener, scientist and founder of the University of Virginia. His Monticello home is now big tourism business with a new interactive ‘Discover Centre’ and a host of guided tours with knowledgeable staff. Everything is extremely well run and in 1987 Monticello was designated a World Heritage Site along with the nearby University of Virginia, which Jefferson also founded. I really enjoyed exploring The Lawn and Rotunda at the University, which Jefferson cleverly designed around an academic village mixing students and teachers in simple accommodation in two storey pavilions.
Jefferson was also highly obsessed with a desire to make wine, but unfortunately, like the earlier Jamestown settlers, he had little luck with the imported vines from Europe, which failed to thrive in the Virginia. Thanks to modern techniques, vineyards are now an important industry of the state and there are plenty of wine trails to follow. The award winning Jefferson and Barbousville Vineyards are both worth a visit.
www.barboursvillewine.net
www.jeffersonvineyards.com
I was highly entertained by a meeting with the late President James Monroe at Ash-Lawn Highland, his former residence from 1729-1823. Thankfully, it wasn’t his ghost or my consumption of too much local wine, but one of the host of star performers who dress in period costume to illustrate the life and times of President Monroe at this museum and performing arts site.
http://www.al-h.us
Fact box
For more information on the Capital Region USA please visit www.CapitalRegionUSA.org or call 0208 339 6048
For information about the Farmer’s markets, wineries and gardens in the region please visit www.MyCapitalGardensUSA.co.uk
America as You Like it offers an 11-day ‘Vibrant Cities, Secret Gardens and Magnificent Mountain’ fly drive package from £945 per person including return flights with British Airways, accommodation, and car rental. The itinerary takes in Washington DC, Baltimore, Annapolis, Chincoteague, Williamsburg, Charlottesville and the Shenandoah National Park. For more information and to book please visit www.Americaasyoulikeit.com or call 020 8742 8299.
I was a fresh-faced student when I first visited Washington D.C., the capital city of the United States back in the summer of 1984. I had just finished working as a counsellor at an American Kids Summer camp in Michigan and was enjoying a fortnight’s travel before returning to Britain. I remember trying to squeeze in as many of the tourist attractions as possible, but there was so much to see and do, I promised myself I would return.
It took a quarter of a century, but I finally managed to keep my promise when I embarked on a tour around the capital region of Washington D.C. and Virginia in the early summer of 2009. I was intrigued to discover how things may have changed, particularly as the "Obama effect" has led to a big rise in the number of Britons booking trips to Washington DC.
I decided to explore the gardens, national parks, wineries and farmers markets of the region after watching the highly successful BBC TV series ‘Around the World in 80 Garden’s’. One episode featured Monty Don’s personal expedition to Monticello, home of Thomas Jefferson and described by him as being ‘perhaps the most famous garden in the whole region – if not the whole of America’.
Suitably impressed, I began my visit amongst the movers and shakers of Washington D.C. and headed for a whistle stop tour of the capital on a guided bike ride around the major sites on and around the National Mall and Capital Hill. It’s a healthy and green way to explore the city and the flat terrain with great cycle paths made the tour easy, fun and a useful way of getting your bearings around a busy city.
http://www.bikenroll.com
Other transport options to explore Washington include the Open Top Sightseeing double-decker bus tours.
http://www.opentopsightseeing-dc.com
The Metro, which is quick and inexpensive with a day pass at just $7.80 per person or you can simply join a free walking tour from an organisation called DCbyFoot where you leave your guide a tip to show your appreciation.
http://www.dcbyfoot.com
Another free attraction, which shouldn’t be missed, is The National Gallery of Art boasting one of the country’s largest collections of Western art and sculpture housed in two contrasting buildings of architectural style. My favourite is the modern East Wing featuring work by all the major C20th artists from Picasso to Britain’s own Rachel Whiteread.
http://www.nga.gov
Keen horticulturists are spoiled for choice in Washington. My top recommendations include The Hillwood Estate, the former spring and autumn residence of the heiress, art collector and philanthropist Marjorie Merriweather Post. Inside the Georgian-style mansion is a fine collection of Russian imperial and French decorative art but it’s the series of pleasure gardens that made the greatest impression on me. Being a keen golfer, I just loved the beautifully manicured 9-hole putting green where Mrs. Post’s family and friends must have practised their game amidst an informal English garden setting. Other garden treasures include the Japanese-style hillside garden, the sweet smelling rose collection and the French Parterre, reflecting Mrs Post’s love of C18th French culture.
Dumbarton Oaks is the former residence of Mildred and Robert Woods Bliss and is part of Harvard University, but the beautifully tended terraced gardens; house and museum are open to the public. The couple transformed the neglected grounds into a series of traditional English, Italian and French styles with plants chosen for year round interest.
http://www.doaks.org
Perched on one of DC’s highest points is The National Arboretum, a living museum where trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific and educational purposes. I particularly enjoyed exploring the cottage-style scented herb garden, one of the largest in the nation and a botanical treasure.
http://www.usna.usda.gov
Don’t leave Washington without popping into Kramerbooks an independent bookstall, bar/café and restaurant rolled into one that has become an institution in DC and a prime meeting place. It gets crowded in the evenings so try their breakfast or brunch followed by a stroll around DC’s Eastern Market where local merchants offer everything from fresh pasta to delicious blueberry pancakes. On Weekends the Farmers Market moves outdoors. Arts & Crafts Fairs are held on Saturdays and The Flea Market attracts a crowd on Sundays.
http://www.kramers.com
The State of Virginia has always been noted for its kind hospitality and the good ladies of The Garden Club of Virginia are no exception. I was lucky enough to meet a few of their distinguished members when I visited the Morven Estate to discuss the programme of events for next years Historic Garden Week – a nine day open house celebration of some of Virginia’s most beautiful gardens, homes and landmarks. It’s the oldest house and garden public tour event in the nation and raises a considerable amount of money for garden restoration projects. Apart from visiting the grand renovated house and vast gardens at Morven, I also had the pleasure of an accompanied walk around the charming private garden of Mary Beth Wood who was only too pleased to show me around her property.
This is one of Virginia’s finest social events of the year and a great opportunity to appreciate Virginia’s heritage and to indulge in a spot of people watching. Not to be missed.
Virginia’s Historic Gardens Week takes place between the 17-25th April 2010. www.VAGardenweek.org
The highlight of my trip was a visit to Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s home, gardens and plantations. Jefferson was a remarkable man who was not only the primary author of the Declaration of Independence and president of the United States but also a noted architect, gardener, scientist and founder of the University of Virginia. His Monticello home is now big tourism business with a new interactive ‘Discover Centre’ and a host of guided tours with knowledgeable staff. Everything is extremely well run and in 1987 Monticello was designated a World Heritage Site along with the nearby University of Virginia, which Jefferson also founded. I really enjoyed exploring The Lawn and Rotunda at the University, which Jefferson cleverly designed around an academic village mixing students and teachers in simple accommodation in two storey pavilions.
Jefferson was also highly obsessed with a desire to make wine, but unfortunately, like the earlier Jamestown settlers, he had little luck with the imported vines from Europe, which failed to thrive in the Virginia. Thanks to modern techniques, vineyards are now an important industry of the state and there are plenty of wine trails to follow. The award winning Jefferson and Barbousville Vineyards are both worth a visit.
www.barboursvillewine.net
www.jeffersonvineyards.com
I was highly entertained by a meeting with the late President James Monroe at Ash-Lawn Highland, his former residence from 1729-1823. Thankfully, it wasn’t his ghost or my consumption of too much local wine, but one of the host of star performers who dress in period costume to illustrate the life and times of President Monroe at this museum and performing arts site.
http://www.al-h.us
Fact box
For more information on the Capital Region USA please visit www.CapitalRegionUSA.org or call 0208 339 6048
For information about the Farmer’s markets, wineries and gardens in the region please visit www.MyCapitalGardensUSA.co.uk
America as You Like it offers an 11-day ‘Vibrant Cities, Secret Gardens and Magnificent Mountain’ fly drive package from £945 per person including return flights with British Airways, accommodation, and car rental. The itinerary takes in Washington DC, Baltimore, Annapolis, Chincoteague, Williamsburg, Charlottesville and the Shenandoah National Park. For more information and to book please visit www.Americaasyoulikeit.com or call 020 8742 8299.
